May 12, 2011

Hello all!

I apologize for the lack of updates, but the google blog websites are blocked in China, and this is the first time we've had the internet since enterning Kyrgyzstan over 2 weeks ago.  I also apologize that I have no photos to post yet but will try to post some soon!

So after arriving in China, we spent a week in the city of Kashgar getting organized for some time in the mountains.  We needed to buy food and gas canisters, as well as arrange for transport into Kyrgyzstan.  We tried to get a permit to climb and ski the 7500m Muztagh Ata mountain which is 200km south of Kashgar, but alas, the Chinese have capitalized on the popularity of this mountain and are charging outrageous prices for permits.

After we had our mountain of gear sorted out, we hired a taxi to take us to the border with Kyrgyzstan at Irkeshtam Pass.  This was relatively easy, but there is 10km of no man's land between the borders.  We either had to bribe the guards to let our taxi take us across no man's land, or walk with all of our gear.  We chose the bribe.. which amounted to about $20.

Once at the border, our taxi was allowed to go no further. From here the hitching began...it didn't take long and before we knew it, we were headed towards the village of Sary-Tash in the back of a dump truck.  (You need to try everything once right?) Needless to say, it was a cheap ride and it got us where we needed to be.  From Sary-Tash we needed to get to the next village of Sary-Mogol to try to get ourselves into the Lenin base camp.

In Sary-Mogol we were set up with a homestay, which is really the only option for accommodation.  For $10 a day we were fed and had a place to sleep.  Our hosts were very generous.  Sary-Mogol was a very unique experience, and a very rough existence for the people living there.  There is no running water and the electricity is not always a guarantee.  The days start before dawn and there are chores every single day such as hauling water from the river, milking cows and yaks, cooking, cleaning and of course, the ever resourceful home-repairs of their poorly made Russian Lada cars.

In Sary-Mogul we learned that the roads into the Lenin Peak basecamp were going to be a problem so we did what any self respecting local would do in the same situation... we rode horses!  Horses are a huge part of Kyrgyz culture, as they lead nomadic lifestyles.  During the summer, the villagers head for the hills to live in yurts and graze their animals.

The horse ride in to basecamp was highly entertaining, with moments of sheer terror.  Our horses were loaded with ridiculous amounts of gear and our guides were laughing at our riding skills.  Jamie's horse took off on a wild gallop and Matt's horse tried to buck him off a few times.. This was all quite terrifying at the time, but is pretty hilarious in retrospect.  I was lucky and had the calm, sleepy horse.. phew!

Upon arriving at base camp, which is at 3600m, we set up camp waved our horses and guides good bye and started to talk climbing strategy.  That night the altitude sickness hit me like a ton of bricks.  I puked hard all night (sorry... no one likes to read that...).  I got onto the altitude drugs and started to improve, but we were stuck at base camp for a few more nights that we'd hope for while I recovered.  The combination of me being ill and then some unsettled weather kept the summit out of our reach.  We did manage to get some great skiing in however, including a couloir off of the 4800m Petrowskij Peak which is a probable first descent!  We were pretty stoked on that one.  We spent 10 days in the Lenin area and got some great turns in.

We were met once again by our guides and horses and rode back to Sary-Tash where we spent one last night with our wonderful hosts.  Yesterday we hired a taxi to take us to the city of Osh which is where we are right now.  We are here for one more night and then heading north in search of more shredding!

Until next time... (hopefully with photos...)